Pictured are dowel plugs in the keel of the "Chubby D"
This photo is of a cross section of a rib that has been cut to illustrate how the fastener (nail or screw) holes get plugged. The arrows below show where the dowel has been inserted in the hole left by the fastener and filled it so that a water pocket - where rot would start if not filled - can not exist.
Pictured above is a small core drill that will core out the remaining nail shanks to ensure we don't leave iron in the boat that can rust and accelerate rot. In addition, when predrilling for our bottom screws, when we break a bit - it may actually prevent us from properly seating the new bottom against the ribs. Worse yet, if we do get a hole predrilled and it is next to a piece of nail we run the risk of breaking off the screw as we drive it in and then we definitely have a difficult time getting the bottom to seat on the ribs.
These extractors are a bit spendy, there are some others made of roll pin material on the market. They are a bit less expensive and a bit tougher. We need to find use these.
Removal of rib to rib supports
This is required only where we are going to repair or replace an adjoining rib, however, If you have a desire to coat all of the ribs surfaces with CPES then every one of these short supports would need to be removed. While not a requirement, it is not a bad idea. Typically I would inspect very closely at the joint between the cross members and the ribs and if no rot I would not disturb these.
Keel
The keel needs to either be replaced or repaired. If the only damage to the keel is the last few feet at the stern then a new section of keel can be spliced into the existing by using a proper scarf joint. If there is damage to the keel at several different places along it's length then it would make more sense to replace it entirely.
CPES
Hull side to hull bottom joint (chine) joint treatment.
This is what we will need to do here to avoid the use of fiberglass (which will not likely stay in place) on this joint. This drawing was used for another boat, but the same concept will apply to your boat with a couple of minor changes. Note that the boat is shown UPSIDE DOWN just as you have yours positioned.
- First ... it shows two layers of hull,which we may not do.. so pretend the "plywood" layer is not there. The put it in your mind that where it says "bottom plank" is our layer of plywood.
- At this time I think we should add a spray rail instead of fiberglass. - The spray rail will give us an extra layer of sealant over the joint and protect the joint from logs, water heaters, tires and wheels refrigerators and other debris commonly found in lakes and rivers!
Remaining Discussions
- Bottom thickness and joints - Yes please send me a sample... it would be great if you could send me a sample of where two sheets of plywood were originally joined. Also, I'd like to understand how you know there was only one layer of plywood originally. I' puzzled because it appears the keel is rabeted to accept a 1" thickness of plywood (made up of 2 layers of 1/2"?????) I really want to get to the root cause of the first (one layer) bottom and ensure we do not repeat the mistake made by the original builder! I have some theories, but we need to KNOW the reason for the second layer.
- When to sister frame (repair) or replace ribs
- Transom wood - partial replacement
- Hull side deterioration (rot) at stern and how to address - I need some extra photos there but have a trick up my sleeve.
- Tools required - for now, yes I use a band saw for ribs so we should have one at the site unless you have all the ribs complete before I get there.
